Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Day 5


We are off to a slow start. The toll from the previous evening means that we are only starting to get the bikes loaded and it is already after 10 and hot. We drive to the beach past all the touristy bars and decide to just keep going. We need gas. I stop several motorcycles and using the international sign of pointing at the tank am given directions which I don’t understand. Luckily the place is rife with bikes and finger point by finger point I’m getting closer. Finally an old man on a beat up seventies Honda motions us to follow him. We get to the station and once again the brilliant design of the KTM where the gas cap is behind the seat right were all our luggage is strapped down necessitates removing all our strapping. It is hot, we are dripping booze onto the oil stained cement. At this point Charles mention that a part of his bike is dragging on the ground. It seems that the passenger peg support bracket which also supports the rear rack has lost a bolt and has almost fallen off. I remove it and use the remaining fastener to re-attach the rack using the meagre tools supplied.

Riley's bike...
Charlie's bike is missing something..
We decide that we need to take a photo since we are both sweating so heavily. A passing German with a good sense of humour volunteers to be the photographer.

After this we commence a 7 hour ride where we just roll. The roads are incredible. We blast along till we get stuck behind a slow moving truck. Then the fun begins. Dotted or solid lines mean nothing. Usually several others are trapped behind the slow mover so you use them as cover and follow them as they pass. Finally you pass the other escapees and have a momentary view of clear highway. Kick the bike into sixth gear and wind it out until you garb a handful of brakes and the cycle repeats. Throw into this mix the heat, the hairpins, the people coming head on who are playing the same game coming the other way and after 7 hours you are done. Near the end of the day we stop for a drink and find yet another stash of old pop bottles.

As we near our destination we are accosted by an elderly brit on an ancient dirt bike who offers to take us offroading. Charles explains that all we want is to get to our hotel and he speeds off with one foot up in the air and a mad grin on his face. Suddenly we see the volcano. It is right out of a movie. Perfectly shaped with a plume of steam rising from it’s tip.

The GPS leads us astray and we end up on a rutted trail that leads nowhere. Charles drawing on his ancient degree in cartography finally gets us to our hotel.

Once again our little cabin is a s far possible from the reception desk. Is the Harlton name know even in Central America? This time we can park right in front and don’t mind.
Charles has managed to get sunburned right through his riding vest which is perforated.

After a shower where we also do some laundry we head out in search of food and an early bedtime. The majority of the crowd are elderly and we decide to forego the dining room and search out some people with real teeth. The pool bar is deserted and we choose the side where you don’t sit in the water. The fact that we have to get up to use the washroom seems a small price to pay as our bartender Johan is great. We have the place to ourselves and an excellent steak is washed down with some of the local fire water. We discover a new variant of the local brew. Bavaria dark.


So this is me Charlie. I wanted to do a word of the day but am waaay behind so today’s words boys and girls are - Chica which means girl and Cacique Guaro which is the Costa Rican moonshine. Also my trip catch phrase is “Man I hate this trip.” (that is satire for you people from Ontario). Also I think I did pretty good with my margarita fueled Laval French ( quatre mois seulement ) - had a lot to do with the audience.

Day 4

Despite our 5 figure bar bill we both wake up feeling refreshed. At breakfast we are amazed at the buffet when we both experience the best bacon we have ever had. So far on this trip the food has been excellent. By 8:30 it was already getting hot. The forecast was calling for 37 degrees Celsius and the humidity must have been approaching 100%. Just as were leaving we meet a local motorcycle courier who is on his daily 300 km route riding a Honda 150. We had seen the local drug impresario at breakfast but his street cred was at an all time low since he was eating from a child size Frosted Flakes box at a table with his elderly parents. Despite his diminished stature we take his advice from the previous day and head to Playa de Balena even though it takes us out of our way. The coastal highway is nice and smooth with big sweeping curves and light traffic. We get to the beach and meet a nice German couple who warn us that their vehicle was robbed a couple of days ago at this beach. The water is like soup and we do a little body surfing before getting back into our sweaty gear heading to our next stop.



It is pretty much a high speed blast along brand new highway except for a couple of construction zones where we eat dust stuck in convoy with the trucks. We find a spot where although there is a bridge we do a gratuitous fording just to feel like real adventure riders. We get to Manuel Antonio and get lost. The town itself looks a little rough. Homeless guys sleeping on benches, garbage and an edgier feel to the place. We eventually find the Hotel California only to find out that there is a mix-up and we are booked at the Villas Liro. We pile on the sweaty gear once again… The Hotel Villa Liro is a nicer spot where the entire center courtyard is a jungle of live plants. As usual we are in the room farthest from the reception desk.


After check in we are told the parking lot is closed but will open at 4. Sure enough just before 4 we get a call to move our machines. It seems the hotel parking lot is actually the conference center. We drive them into a nicely tiled ballroom already occupied with several cars. After a nap we hit the “Welcome Cocktail” which coincides with the start of happy hour. We are the only participants. Our waiter an amiable young man prepares us each a margarita from the Joe Gaspar school of bartending….one drink and we both actually feel crispy…several more margs interspersed with a few Imperial beers for good measure and we decide it is time for supper. We retreat towards our room to change but the siren call of the hotel pool is too strong. Being of Harlton DNA we de-trouser and hit the pool in our underwear. Bear in mind it is now only 6 PM.

Food, we need food. We stumble out on to the main drag and start the steep descent towards town. The facade of the first restaurant only seems worthy as a bathroom break. The next spot looks more promising and lures us in. The host is the Spanish equivalent of Herb Tarlek and we order the mega fish platter.

Enough food arrives for 5 or 6 humans and we proceed to devour crabs, shrimp, maui maui and a bushel of vegetables. Luckily copious quantities of Imperial are dispensed to aid in digestion. Distended we now roll farther down hill to find Sa bar. One of our servers a good looking black woman overhears me drop a French word and we are then forced to endure Charlie’s “French” for the rest of the evening. The climb back to the hotel which was so easily accomplished earlier in the day with help of 690 cc of Austrian motorcycle proves far more difficult. We arrive at the gate to the fortress like compound (the gate which when Charles asked we were told is never closed) and it is padlocked with a huge chain. Sweating profusely we optimistically press the intercom button on the wall of the darkened compound. Eventually a guard saunters up and lets us in. We stagger to bed. It is just after midnight.

Check-in/OK message from Motoriley SPOT Messenger



Motoriley
Latitude:10.50388
Longitude:-84.69573
GPS location Date/Time:02/24/2010 18:46:02 EST
Click the link below to see where I am located.
http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&hl=en&geocode=&q=10.50388,-84.69573&ll=10.50388,-84.69573&ie=UTF8&z=12&om=1
Message:Hi this is Riley. I'm OK.

Rollin', rollin', rollin'

Location as of 12:45

Manuel Antonio


Tuesday, February 23, 2010